The fishing hamlets of Montezuma, on the Pacific Coast, and Manzanillo, on the Caribbean, are gateways to two of Costa Rica’s premier wildlife reserves. Montezuma has been the nation’s unofficial offbeat travel capital for more than two decades. But Manzanillo now has the more youthful edge, and its taupe, palm-shaded beach backed by forested mountains is more than equal in beauty to the legendary sands of Montezuma.
Manzanillo was virtually unknown until barely a decade ago when a road finally linked this sleepy village to the outside world. The pavement peters out here, close to the border with Panama and abutting the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, a tropical fantasia protecting a precious rain forest, mangroves, and swamps
Four species of marine turtles crawl ashore to lay their eggs on the soft sands of the beach. The lagoons and estuaries are a habitat for endangered manatees, and a rare dolphin species – the tucuxí – cavorts in these waters.
- The refuge extends out to sea, protecting coral reefs teeming with colorful fish, a treat for snorkelers and divers. The watery world is also a breeding ground for tarpons and snooks – feisty gamefish that gives anglers a rod-bending thrill to remember. There’s even a fishing lodge in the heart of the refuge. A local cooperative offers guided hikes and horse-riding along well-marked trails, as well as canoe trips through the snakelike creeks.
FORGET MONTEZUMA?
THE BUILD-UP
A favorite of budget travelers, this laid-back village is an idyll for those who love paradise on a budget. The once sleepy fishing hamlet fronts a rocky cove and has a gorgeous wave-washed beach to the east. Visitors can choose from a variety of activities, from ATV rides to waterfall rappels. Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve is nearby.
THE LETDOWN
With so many backpackers, Montezuma has a bit of a “hippy” aura, and much of the budget lodging leaves a lot to be desired. Swimming in the ocean is dangerous due to riptides. Much of Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve is off-limits, and if you miss the bus, it’s a long walk.
GOING ANYWAY?
Carry sturdy footwear for hiking the trails in Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve and come prepared for rain. Do not clamber up La Cascada, the waterfall west of Montezuma, as several people have slipped and died doing so.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There and Around
Juan Santamaría International Airport is 12 miles (20 km) west of San José. From here, regular buses connect to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca on the Caribbean coast. Buses depart Puerto Viejo for Manzanillo four times daily. Jeep taxis can also be hired.
When to Go
Rain is a possibility at any time of the year, but September to November and February to April are the best times to pay a visit, when the chances of rainfall are less.
Last thought
Unlike on the Pacific Coast, local inhabitants include Afro-Caribbeans, descendants of Jamaican immigrants who have infused local culture with reggae music and spicy cuisine, and the local dialect with a lilting patois. Uniquely, Manzanillo is also a base for exploring the indigenous reserves of the Bribrí and Cabecar native people
